Sunday, September 20, 2009

Step on it!

       ABBC wildlife documentary narrated by the godly voice of David Attenborough is on the television. The camera pans in on a vast savannah, empty but for a small, docile herd of grazing kick scooters.Attenborough describes how tranquil things are until he utters a line that indicates a dramatic change is about to occur in the story.
       "But little do these creatures know of the impending danger."
       The camera cuts to a bicycle approaching in the distance,using the tall, dry grass as cover. After a couple of words from Attenborough to build up tension, followed by some shots of the kick scooters taking notice of the possible threat, a burst of movement from the bicycle initiates a chase scene. Amid the impending mayhem a young kick scooter trips and is caught by the bicycle, its demise seemingly assured.
       "But what's this?" asks Attenborough."It appears that the bicycle has taken an interest in this female kick scooter."
       Three months later the inter-species couple give birth to a hybrid creature that the Dutch would label a "step".
       Sadly, David Attenborough doesn't live in Bangkok and there are no recorded cases of bicycles and kick scooters mating. However, the step is a real transportation device.It's popular in parts of Holland for sight-seeing purposes and has reached Thailand thanks to Dutchman Michael Hoes, a man who bears a striking resemblance to Sir Anthony Hopkins, if only the Welsh knight starred in more Disney movies. Established in 1989, Hoes's company ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist is responsible for most of the bicycle tours you see around town.
       To put things simply, the step is part bicycle and part kick scooter. The front wheel is big like a bicycle's while the rear wheel is small. The pedalling mechanism of a bicycle is replaced with a flat board to stand on while one leg kicks the ground to accelerate. A single good kick can propel the rider almost 10 metres and balancing is surprisingly easy since the platform you stand on is only 10 centimetres off the ground.
       Seeing that my wait for Cherry Coke to return to Thailand after disappearing from the market over a decade ago has proven futile, I've lost the will to live. I figured that dying a violent death involving this new mode of transport would at least put me on the front page of one Thai newspaper.
       OK, so maybe I don't want to die but I was willing to go on a stepping tour with Michael.
       me the kind of safety reassurance that emo kids try to avoid. Thoughts on my mind: Is the Bangkok traffic and road quality going to make this dangerous? Where will he take me?8:30am:After some safety coaching ("follow me," and "approach speed bumps from the side,") and a double espresso from Hoes's coffee machine the tour begins. The only other customer on the tour today is Olaf, a holidaying Dutch banker. The rest of the stepping crew consists of Hoes and his cheery Thai staff, comprised today of three women and one man. They are all clad in trademark pink shirts.
       Hoes's customers are usually European visitors who want to see non-touristy sights. However, he does get the occasional adventurous Thai person who is interested in the city where they live.8:45am:At first I feel a bit tense on the step but soon get the hang of it, as does Olaf. There is an initial strain in my thighs and buttocks but after a while I don't feel anything (like prison). It's surprisingly fun to glide around but speed bumps and potholes can lead to disaster for the careless. Although at such low speed you're not going to suffer a serious injury.
       We travel in single file as the guide - Hoes for today takes the lead so that we know where to avoid bumps. It definitely works well on Bangkok streets and the step is surprisingly easy to lift up and down sidewalks.9am:We have made it to a back soi between Sukhumvit Soi 22 and Soi Phai Singto. This seems to be a Chinese neighbourhood that I never knew existed. There are small townhouses lined up all over the place with very narrow streets between them. Somehow, cars are parked in these tight spaces.
       "Where are we?" I ask."And you live in Bangkok?" Hoes replies.I blush in embarrassment, but only for a while since it's hard to stay mad at Disney Hopkins for long.It's interesting that the tour brings surprises even to someone from Bangkok. How often do we venture into random neighbourhoods that we don't have any tangible reason to go to? There's always the fear of getting mugged I suppose but with our guide it just feels like any other tour.
       One point of interest in this area is a shophouse that makes leather shoes. Hoes points it out as he stops to greet the owner, who has obviously met him before.9:15am:We step towards Rama 4 Road. An obese Chinese man who - maybe from a combination of his ethnic heritage and high body mass index - has eyes like Chairman Mao squinting in the sunlight, sits up in surprise."Yo, yo!" he yells.
       A curious man sitting at an amulet store nearby politely asks a question about our steps,with one of the female guides more than happy to oblige with an answer.9:30am:After traversing Rama 4 Road, we cross over a canal via a wooden walkway.There's some old people here partaking in an illegal form of Thai craps with a makeshift playing board fashioned from cardboard. There is a stack of cash on the table. I'm tempted to take the money and step away as fast as I can, but the thought of escaping on a mode of transport with a top speed of around 25 kilometres an hour doesn't seem like a good idea on the mean Klong Toey streets.9:33am:We arrive at the lively Klong Toey market. There is a circus of activity as traders go about their business. They yell out the day's prices as diminutive, muscular men push trolleys to deliver goods to their respective stalls.
       Despite the market having the feel of a rugby field full of ogres waiting to tackle you,the step is surprisingly easy to manoeuvre since there are no seats to climb off like on a bicycle. Spotting us, a trolley pusher armed with an entire farm's worth of herbs grabs Disney by the arm.
       "Looks fun! Please take me with you!" he jokes with a smile so warm it could replace the Hallmark Channel. I cry a little on the inside.
       We spend some time looking at all the crazy sights of the market. Live chickens, frogs and even eels are sold for human consumption here so this would be an epic place to take that hot girl you met from PETA on a date. It's not really the kind of place that most middleclass shoppers would ever go to really, since the invention of air-conditioned supermarkets.
       Most of the market people stare at us but being so busy they just go back to their business. The aroma of chicken poo from the poultry zone is exceptionally phenomenal but despite the smell the market is always an awesome stop.10am:We arrive at Benjakiti Park where we take a break under a tree to eat fruit. We take some photos, making silly poses with the lake and Sukhumvit skyscrapers as a backdrop. The tour stops anytime you feel that you just have to take another cool snap for your Facebook account.10:45am:We head back to HQ. Being kind and considerate, Olaf turns back to see how the other steppers behind him are doing only to trip over a pothole on the Sukhumvit sidewalk near Soi 22. His only injury though is a very mild scrape on one of his knuckles.11am:We're back at ABC drinking another coffee and laughing away about an eventful morning. From a tourist's point of view you really do get to see some unique little alleyways and areas that wouldn't usually be included in a typical Bangkok tourism brochure.
       As a Bangkokian, the stepping tour really allowed me to see a whole different side of this humongous city that didn't involve a mall or a nightclub. I also got some exercise and sunshine in the process.
       Overall, it was seriously fun to be able to glide through the city with the ABC crew.Crossing roads under the direction of these guys felt safe. By staying off the main roads for the majority of the trip we rarely had to deal with pollution or the possibility of becoming some flashy looking road kill. And with the route being individually tailored to each tour group you are almost guaranteed never to travel the same way twice.G
       Contact Tours begin at 8:30am,9:30am, and 10:30am daily, ABC Amazing Bangkok Cyclist, Sukhumvit Soi 26.C02-665-6364 or 081-812-9641,www.steppinginbangkok.com.PB1,200 for a three-hour trip and B1,500 for four-hour trip which includes lunch with a crash course in street food.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

BUSINESS WITH A KICK

       Virapol Gym builds a global reputation for Muay Thai training, writes Somporn Thapanachai
       Muay Thai or Thai boxing is a well-known martial art worldwide and many gyms offer training in cities across the globe. But Thailand is still by far the best place to learn the demanding art, and the best-recognised training centre in the heart of Bangkok is Virapol Gym.
       Located inside the compound of the former Pre-Cadet School on Rama IV Road next to the Suan Lum Night Bazaar,Virapol Gym offers Muay Thai training every day for 600 baht for two rounds, from 7-10 am and 3-7 pm, said owner Nikom Pheisiri.
       The gym has trained thousands of foreigners in its five years of establishment. They come from countries as far away as Chile and as close as China and Japan.
       Many trainees choose to stay at the gym, which can accommodate up to 50 people at one time in separate male and female dormitories,and pay 300 baht a night.
       Mr Nikom,40, said the gym expected to train all comers to be capable in Muay Thai so they can actually use the martial art.
       "We have no intention of withholding the knowledge and tricks of Muay Thai.We teach everything to trainees so it's up to their body conditioning to sustain the training as Muay Thai uses all parts of the body. It's tough for students who seriously want to take up this martial art," said the former Thai boxer who has spent many years teaching Muay Thai in other countries.
       The majority of students at the Virapol Gym want to take up boxing seriously or become trainers in their own countries,so there are few tourists in the sessions.About half of the students are female.Trainees normally take at least a week to a few months of training. The gym has six trainers.
       Mr Nikom said practising Muay Thai can require a long period of training.Foreigners generally start at a much older age than Thai fighters, who usually start training when they are six or seven years old and retire at around 25.
       In each round of training, the procedure starts with a Thai oil massage,warm-up and 5-10 kilometres of running to relax the muscles. Jumping rope fo-
       lows, and after that shadow-boxing, heavybag boxing, Thai pad training, which involves practice punches, kicks,knee and elbow strikes with a trainer, along with a variety of other moves.The number of trainees each day depends on the situation.
       "Trainees do the same things every day. If we find they are good enough, we will send them to test their ability at Lumpini Boxing Stadium," said Mr Nikom,whose trainees will get into the ring this coming Saturday.
       He also sends trainees to fight at Thai boxing events in other countries and recently signed a five-year agreement to send fighters to Beijing. His trainees have also fought in several European countries, but he has not yet sent any to the United States despite receiving some requests.
       Trainees who join for only a half-day will be charged half the daily rate. A monthly rate of 15,000 baht is also available.
       A convenient location allows trainees to spend their free time enjoying Bangkok, but the lease could soon be terminated as the area has been leased to develop a new commercial complex by Central Pattana Plc. Mr Nikom says he has already found a new location to continue his business if this occurs.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

STEP UP THE QUALITY OR FACE THE BOOT

       Nike's decision to relocate to Vietnam is a dire warning for Thai industries to pull their socks up. The recent announcement that Nike, the international sports goods and sports shoe maker, is planning to relocate its production facility from Thailand to Vietnam is a warning to Thai industry it needs to upgrade quality and production levels. Nike plans to relocate this facility in late February 2010, according to Sakon Sikamamat, president of the Thai Footwear Association. The international brand says it plans to move to Thailand's competitors Vietnam and Indonesia because of the lower production costs in those two countries; this according to a plan to cut production costs from the company's headquarters in America. The relocation to a cheaper source of production is predictable. Amidst the current global economic slump, the company, like so many others, is looking to cut its production costs in order to remain competitive.
       While the Thai agencies concerned should be prepared to assist those who are laid off, Nike's intention should serve as a dire warning to all industries in Thailand. If they fail to improve their quality, they will be quickly caught and overtaken by the emerging economies in Asean and beyond.
       Sakon said that apart from the Nike relocation plan, other foreign-brand shoe companies have reduced their purchase orders due to the economic situation. Low-end footwear products from Thailand are still popular in neighbouring countries such as Cambodia and Laos. But the producers of these budget products are unlikely to maintain their share in those markets for long. This is due to cheaper imports from China taking over the markets in Indochina. Chinese producers can offer far cheaper products than Thai manufacturers.
       But there is still light at the end of the tunnel. The Thai shoe industry is perceived as having potential because the quality of Thai products is seen as medium- to high-end by consumers in the US, Europe and Japan. This perception of consumers overseas shows that the Thai shoe industry will have room to grow if it manages to constantly improve quality so that it does not have to compete directly with the newly-emerging economies and their lower production costs.
       Ironically, in spite of the news of the relocation of plants, skilled labour is still in high demand in Thailand. Sakon said the leather-shoe sector faces a shortage of designers and some 4,000 skilled workers. Indeed, Thai leather products have increasingly gained an international reputation for high quality and good design. If the industry manages to increase the number of designers to shore up production value, it will shine in the future. Educational institutions and companies should also work to produce qualified personnel to serve the industry. Practical training in factories, where design students can experience the work environment and real market demand, will help prepare them for the industry.
       To secure market share in the long term, Thailand should not only serve as a production base for global brands. International brand names are ready to move their production facilities to anywhere that offers cheaper costs aligned with quality workmanship. Nike is an example. Thai industries must also think about the possibility of establishing and building up their own brand names. This can be done by highlighting the strengths of products made in Thailand through attention to detail and quality.
       The current economic slump will be a big test for the survivors. Non-competitive industries that depend on cheap labour will not be able to maintain their market share for long because of the fierce competition from other labour-intensive production bases. Only those industries with the potential to find a niche in the crowded market place will emerge as winners amid the current doldrums.
       If shoe producers fail to upgrade quality, and those involved fail in their initiatives to create awareness of the quality of Thai-made products, then they will bite the dust. And we will see more plant relocations to other countries with no return to Thailand.